Ramblings

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Imagine if the governing party in Ireland or the UK did this...

I read <a
href="http://www.addisfortune.com/Businesses%20to%20Raise%20Funds%20to%20Finance%20EPRDF%20HQs,%20Training%20Centre.htm"
title="Article in Fortune newspaper">this article</a> in the Addis-based
Fortune newspaper today and did a double-take...basically, it says that
EPRDF, the 'ruling' party in Ethiopia is asking businesses to fund the
building of its party HQ and a 'training centre' for members.
Then I thought, what would the outcry be like if Fianna Fail in Ireland
or Labour in the UK tried the same thing!?
It made me laugh but at the same time it's a bit scary.

Here's the link to the article:
http://www.addisfortune.com/Businesses%20to%20Raise%20Funds%20to%20Finance%20EPRDF%20HQs,%20Training%20Centre.htm
-----------------
Terri O'Sullivan

mobile: +251 911 722096
home: 00251 11 618 2408
web: www.terriosullivan.com

Postal address:
PO Box 26001, Code 1000
Addis Ababa
Ethiopia

Saturday, March 22, 2008

The St. Patrick's Day Charity Ball

Don't we shine up nicely? The picture is of Dawit and me all dressed up and ready to go to the ball. It was in the Sheraton Addis on March 15th. Click the picture for more photos.
The night was great - over 500 people, the only event of its kind in the Addis social calendar, so anyone who's anyone was at it (if they'd bought their tickets before they all sold out).
Well done to the organizing committee - great job lads!

Saturday, January 26, 2008

The Firewood Women in Addis

On the road up to Entoto, which goes up past Shiro Meda, many women can be seen carrying these huge loads of firewood.
They go up to the forest to collect it and then carry it down on their backs. They take it to sell in the city, to earn a few birr.

No men do this to earn money - I've only ever seen women, and girls, doing it. The loads they carry must be so heavy, they are bent almost double carrying them down the hill. They walk several km carrying the load.

I don't think this is going to change until there are better opportunities for women to earn a living. Why the many unemployed young men hanging around Shiro Meda don't try it, I don't know....I think this society sees the gathering, and therefore carrying, of firewood as a woman's job and that's not going to change any time soon.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

On airports & leaving

Stuck in Bole airport for 5 hours (having been bumped off a 6:30am flight - see last post), I was observing some of the goings-on. As I had breakfast (of sorts - cheese-burger & chips shared with D, followed by macciato & cake), I was beside the area where people accompanying departing passengers have to leave them. There was a flight to the Middle East being checked in - I knew because many of the passengers were young women, leaving in the hope of better opportunities in Yemen or Saudi.

 

There were extended family groups seeing them off - brothers, sisters, mothers, fathers, friends and boyfriends. The tearful, emotional scenes were bringing back my memories of saying goodbye to D when I was leaving Ethiopa (the tears were flowing then, for sure!) and conversely, when I left Dublin the last time. My Mum and my sister stayed with me almost till I reached the departure gates and once one of them started getting a bit teary, we knew it was time to say goodbye!

 

But, in my case, I wasn't leaving out of economic necessity (it was for love :)). These girls are leaving because they believe they will have a better opportunity. 'Brokers' in Ethiopia help them make the arrangements - getting their passports and visas. I've seen long queues of the same young women, girls even, outside the Immigration Bureau. It saddens me because I know that some of them will end up being exploited in the Middle East. There are reports of girls being treated as slaves and being sexually exploited. I'm sure this doesn't happen to all of them. And it seems this doesn't stop them from going....or maybe it's more that they don't know, there's not enough awareness of the problem. I wonder whether their parents and brothers would let them go if they knew of the risks.

 

 

On Ethiopian Airlines

I was at Bole airport for about 5 hours last Thursday morning, on the way to Gondar. We'd booked and confirmed our flights and were at the airport at 5:30am for the 6:30 flight.

It was very busy, lots of tourists on the way to different parts of the country and Ethiopians on the move as the coming Sunday was Timkat (Epiphany) - a big celebration and spectacle  in the Orthodox Church - also part of the reason we were travelling to Gondar.

 

Alas....we queued a long time and then figured out we were at the wrong desk (no signs or indications at all from Ethiopian Airlines...). By the time we made it to the right desk, it was 6:20 and we'd been bumped off the flight. After a short time, it was apparent that several other people were in similar predicaments. One man had been bumped off his Bahir Dar flight the day before and was told to show up that morning...he was still waiting to be given some concrete information (not a strong point of Ethiopian Airlines). Another man had bought two tickets to increase his chances...but he left the airport some time later, having given up. We waited about an hour (during which time a second flight to Gondar had gone) before a check-in agent finally put us on the next flight at 10:40. So it was 7:30 and we had 2 hours to fill before we could check in our baggage.

 

I know it's reminiscent of certain low-fare airlines in Europe. Not a cup of tea or coffee in sight, no offer of refreshment vouchers or transport to go home for a while....(which would be feasible in Addis, we live about 10-15 minutes from Bole by car). I know other airlines 'overbook' but overbooking by 10-15 passengers is a bit extreme, it seems to me. They routinely have 'waiting lists' for flights and you can be stuck on the waiting list while other people magically get on before you. There's no incentive for good customer service as they are the only airline operating the internal flights, a state-run monopoly. Fares are always the same though not that bad value.

It's not all bad though - this weekend was a particularly busy one because of Timkat. In ordinary times, the flexibility of being able to go on a waiting list and even pay for a flight just the day before (as I've done in the past) is great. And I’m told that they have to reduce the number of passengers sometimes depending on the weather conditions (that’s no joke – something to do with the weight on the plane and the air outside!).

 

Rant over!

 

 

The Generation Game

Remember the Generation Game on BBC TV years ago (Bruce Forsyth was the
host, at least in the original version)....well, I was reminded of it as
I waited at the baggage carousel in Bole airport this morning, after
coming back from Gondar.

Let me see if I can remember...two big plastic jars of honey, a plastic
water bottle filled with yellow tej (like mead - an alcoholic drink made
from honey), a yellow plastic bag tied with string (which later revealed
a big iron pot inside it, when it burst in the owner's hand), a
pillow-case filled and tied up, a gabbi (Ethiopian white cotton blanket)
sticking out of the top of a hold-all, an Orthodox Christian church
stick (like a long walking stick, used for leaning on during church
ceremonies), an open bag of kolo (roasted & salted barley), an Orthodox
priest's velvet umbrella....and lots of suitcases and holdalls.

A fairly typical collection of baggage coming off an Ethiopian Airlines
internal flight, in my experience!

Will report on Timkat in Gondar soon - it was really amazing and more so
for the Millennium year.

Sunday, January 06, 2008

New Year's Eve

Again, it wasn't really the new year here (we had that in September - remember the millennium: http://www.terriosullivan.com/blog/2007/09/millennium-madness_07.html).

But people are aware of it and there was a big concert in the Millennium Hall - Aken and Rihanna played at it.
But we weren't there - we got out of Addis, took a 3-4 hour bus journey to Debre Birhan, north of Addis, up in the highlands. We were visiting our friend Gemma, an Irish VSO at the Teacher Training College there. Along with her housemate, Kath, another VSO, Dutch VSO friends Bob & Baukje and various friends and colleagues of Gemma, we had a bit of a new year's party with dinner, drinks and a rendition of Auld Lang Syne accompanied by Andinet on the keyboard at midnight.
The photo here shows all of us in a local bar. It's beside a bakery - Gemma and Kath have discovered that if they go to collect bread when it's ready at 8pm, they can have a g&t while waiting - so we all went to collect the bread that night!

And let me take this opportunity to wish all my friends and family a happy new year for 2008 - I've been a bit lax in contacting you all by email/card/phone, so this is it. And remember, it's the year 2000 in Ethiopia so if you want to step back in time and redo a few things - just come and visit me and D!

Christmas in Addis

Christmas is just about over but it all happens again tomorrow....Ethiopian Christmas is tomorrow, January 7th. While there have been Christmas trees and tinsel on sale and on display in shops and shopping centres in Addis for the last few weeks, it's the flocks of sheep waiting to be sold on the corner near my house that show the real Christmas is coming up!

It so happened that my teaching term ended the week before ferenji Christmas so I was able to take the day off. On the eve, we were in what's become our local, Le Bateau Ivre, French-owned bar in Kazanchis, with Louise, a friend who works for Goal and a couple of her Irish colleagues from Sudan. With our Santa hats on, we were glad that some people decided to set up a Christmas party in the bar that night - decorations (some of which ended up on us - see the photo here!) and a DJ making it complete.
For the day, D had hidden away some presents I'd got by post and personal delivery so I had the Christmas experience of opening pressies in the morning. My family at home had sent me some lovely things:)
D had to go to work for a while (to see a man about a donkey :)) during which time I treated myself to a bacon and eggs breakfast. Bacon isn't common here - both Muslims and Orthodox Christians don't eat pig meat - I believe there are a few farms around but most of the bacon available in supermarkets is imported from Kenya. Hence it's a bit of a treat. Which I greatly enjoyed.

That evening, we went for dinner in Serenade restaurant, a really nice place. We were with the 3 Irish from the night before again and an Ethiopian friend of Louise's. Good company, good food, nice wine, stuffed by dessert - much the same as at home really!
Followed by a few beers in The Mask bar (cool place, on Bole Rd - the walls are adorned with lots of different types of mask), D & I went home tired and happy - leaving a much more energetic Louise & co at it.

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Addis Noise

I'm living at the moment in a nice house in Shiro Meda - for anyone
who's been to Addis, Shiro Meda is home to a well-known traditional
clothes market. It's on the way up to the Entoto hills, so it's even
higher than most of Addis and the air is clear and fresh up there.
I also live just down the road and across from a big Christian Orthodox
church. And that means I hear the church singing, chanting, prayers and
sermons right in the privacy of my own house - because it's all
broadcast over very loud loud-speakers.

On the weekends, it normally starts sometime during Saturday night and
goes on till the morning. I know because a few times when D and I have
come home from a night out about 2-3am, it's started and then I've heard
it still going about 8am, stopping finally about then. Which gives me
great incentive to go out and have a few beers, so I fall asleep
quickly!! Some weeks, we get it on weeknights as well, if there's a
church feast day and particularly if it's connected to that particular
church. I respect people's right to practice their religion but I feel
it's a step too far when it's loudly broadcast to the whole
neighbourhood without any choice in the matter.

Now it seems I'm not the only one who has an issue with this. D finds it
annoying also and while traditionally people don't say anything against
the church, I have read an article in this week's English language
newspaper Fortune (http://www.addisfortune.com - internet here too slow
for me to find the article right now) that was discussing noise
pollution in general in Addis. Perhaps a measure of the sensitivity of
the subject is the fact that the article was anonymous! Though it wasn't
only about religious 'noise' (mosques can be culprits too and
evangelical churches - apparently there's a kind of competition between
them all these days) - it was also about music shops blaring music and
trucks driving around to promote goods & services, using, again loud
music.

I do hope the debate has started in earnest and that there may even be
some legal changes made to help me get a good night's sleep!

Friday, October 05, 2007

Things I like

There are some things about life here that are great and make life
easy....
1. When I feel like a coffee at my desk, I can call the nearby cafe and
they'll bring me a fresh macciato. Never mind that the cafe is just
across the road from the college, this is what the other staff do and I
like it!
2. I got my very dirty shoes (rainy season does that) polished on my way
back from lunch today, by one of the many shoeshine boys along the road.
It was funny because this little boy (about 8 years old I'd say - that's
the way of life here for many children) was obliged to charge me the
normal price because there were a few Ethiopians taking shade from the
sun in the shelter he shares with other shoeshiners. I'm sure that if
they weren't there, I'd have been charged more, as I was the last time I
got the same shoes polished up the road. Not that it really matters,
we're talking eur0.15 or eur0.40 here, but still its the birr that count
here!

Anyway, it's these little things that make life easy here.

To make my afternoon even better, I went off for lunch on my own - had
been going to meet with D but was too late, he got hungry waiting for me
:)
I went to a place nearby that I like, Elsa Bar. I spotted 2 ferenji guys
at another table, with 2 Ethiopian girls, and was sure I detected an
Irish accent there . So after I'd eaten and listened to be sure they
were indeed Irish, I went over to them and ended up having a chat for an
hour or so. One of the guys is from N. Ireland, travelling through
Africa on a motorbike, has been on the road around the world for over 2
years. The other from Cork, opposite ends of the country, on the way
home after working in Sudan for 4 years. They were interesting and it
was nice to have company and to meet Irish people, as always. We may
meet up for beers tonight, it is Friday after all!

Addis Culture

One thing I like about being in Addis, compared to Mekelle, is that
there's more to do. This week alone, I've been to a Samuel Beckett
exhibition and to a performance of Spanish music and dancing.
Admittedly, I didn't really look at the former....I was invited, along
with other Irish citizens, to the launch of the exhibition in the
Ethnological Museum in Addis Ababa University, by the embassy. There was
nice wine and snacks being served up, so I went for the red wine and
chatting with people I met there. I did read the brochure at home later
so I feel like I got something cultural out of it ;)
I went along with an Irish VSO friend and we met various others there. I
made some new friends among current VSO volunteers and newly arrived
volunteers. We spoke briefly with the Charge D'Affaires and met some
embassy staff. Always good to know the right people!

The Spanish dancing was a free event in the National Theatre, which I'd
never been inside before. It's pretty impressive inside, with a big
double sweeping staircase in the lobby. It was organized by the Spanish
embassy as a millennium event. Now that I have some friends and contacts
here, I can hear about these things being on.

Friday, September 14, 2007

Yay - texting has started!

Ethiopia really is moving (back) into the 21st century....SMS texting
was restarted on the mobile network on Ethiopian new year's eve last
Tuesday. Seemingly a gift to the people from the powers that be.
And so far it's working fine and people think it's here to stay. I even
hear that they are working on getting multi-media messaging and mobile
internet going. Now that would be great.
It started up again without a fanfare, I only knew when I got a message
from a friend, then a welcome message from ETC with the service centre
number to set on the phone.
It stopped 2 years ago, after the elections took place. Apparently
because students and others were using text to communicate with each
other during protests. Anyway, not wanting to dwell too much on that,
I'm glad it's back now.

I have been able to send an international text too but haven't confirmed
yet if it arrived and haven't received a reply, feel free to try me!

Asmari dancer

So, I've celebrated the second millennium of my life (and my last unless there's another calendar out there somewhere).
It was good, better than I expected, and I think most people here enjoyed it, whether they were at the big expensive Sheraton concert or out on the streets watching fireworks or in the many bars singing and dancing.

We started the evening in a 'meat house' in the Kazanchis area, with D's siblings. The meat houses are like butchers that also prepare and serve meat, in the form of tibs (roasted chunks of meat) or kitfo (raw steak) and various states in between. The place we were in also serves beer - a good combination! 1.5 kilos of beef tibs between 6 of us was delicious.
Then we joined some friends for a drink in a local bar/restaurant, then went with them to an asmari bet (asmari house) up the road.
Asmari is a style of traditional music/praise singing in Ethiopia. In an Asmari bet, there are a few musicians - usually someone on traditional drums and someone playing masinko, a traditional one-stringed instrument. There's often also one or two dancers in traditional costume and the patrons join in the dancing too. They sing along with the music, singing about the people in the bar, having fun with them and generally having the craic (as we'd say in Ireland). An Asmari bet is usually a small bar, so everyone is involved in what's going on. The only drawback for me is that my Amharic isn't good enough (yet!) to understand all the lyrics...so when they're joking about me in the song, I don't know what it is unless I have an Ethiopian friend with me. Though the word 'ferenji' usually gives it away that they're talking about me :)

After that, we wandered up the road in front of the Palace and joined the crowds out to see the fireworks at midnight. There was a good atmosphere, no trouble, and the fireworks were great. After they finally stopped, we headed back to another bar for a last couple of beers (I was tired from a warm-up night out the night before and not up to seeing in the real Ethiopian start of the millennium at 6am!).

Blanket coverage of events around the country on ETV on new year's day showed lots of people having a good time and getting together. The Sheraton concert looked very good, though, as the BBC World Service reporter put it, those who forked out for the tickets did have to sit through some long speeches before the music started. There was one foreign act - Black Eyed Peas, and lots of Ethiopian artists, such as Teddy Afro (I think), Aster Aweke and Teodros (for those Teddy fans out there, he has a new album out - I haven't got my own copy yet but the songs I've heard are very good and he's got a Frank Sinatra look going on on the album cover).

Happy new millennium everybody!

Friday, September 07, 2007

Millennium Madness

The Ethiopian Millennium is almost upon us - September 11th, Tuesday next week, is New Year's Eve (the last day of the year in the Ethiopian calendar). Which means New Year's Day is on Wednesday, one of the weekly church fasting days. Normally, a big feast day like this means doro wat, a spicy chicken stew, is eaten ....but as Wednesday is a fasting day, I don't know if that'll be allowed this time - I wonder will the Orthodox Church give a dispensation for the Millennium! Though not everyone fasts every Wednesday and Friday, so I'm sure it'll be cooked anyway.

Much like it was at home 7 years ago, the Millennium is everywhere now. You can't miss it in Meskel Square (as shown in the photo here). ETV is talking about it alot (my Amharic is improving but I still can't understand much of what they're staying, though they are using the English word Millennium rather than the Amharic word for it), I get impromptu 'welcome to Ethiopia for the Millenium' greetings from strangers on the street, businesses are advertising Millennium sales and there are decorations popping up on the streets of Addis.

There also seems to be Millennium inflation - the price of food staples like berbere (the hot blend of spices used in Ethiopian cooking) and cooking oil has gone up, while accommodation costs have also gone up. This includes rent and hotel rooms. Many hotels have put up their prices in anticipation of the Ethiopian diaspora who are expected to visit for the Millennium. Official estimates say that there will be 300,000 diaspora visiting. But reports in the media are also saying that hotel bookings and other tourist reservations are not bearing this out, at least not yet.

Landlords across the city have been increasing rents - I have one Ethiopian friend who has been paying Birr300 for his room per month and has now been told it's gone up to Birr400, because the landlord would hope to get that from a visitor for Millenium. Whatever about rents for houses going up, which would affect the many ferenjis living and working here (or their NGOs who pay their rent) and the more affluent Ethiopians, this seems very unfair to average Ethiopians, who hardly earn more than that per month.

Some public events that were due to take place in Addis have been cancelled or postponed due to 'security' reasons. There was to be a 'Taste of Addis' festival in Meskel Square and the annual Great Ethiopian Run (10km) was to take place in September rather than in November. Not very helpful for athletes who were training with September in mind. Again, it's the average Ethiopians who are hit - the events that are taking place are things like the Sheraton party, where the cost excludes normal Ethiopians.

And the Millennium is being used as an excuse for lots of things - I've applied for an internet account and ETC are saying it's still pending because of...yes, you guessed it, the millenium! Not quite sure why or how, but it's a useful excuse for them.

Despite the inflation and whether the diaspora arrive or not, there is a buzz in the air. D and I not sure yet what we'll be doing, but maybe we'll be out partying with friends in the bars and clubs of Addis, perhaps around Kazanchis, shaking shoulders and dancing till the wee small hours! And then we'll spend the first day of the new year with D's family, probably eating lots, be it meat or not!

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Branflakes for breakfast!

The simplest of things make me happy....
I had branflakes and fresh milk for breakfast today!
Not that these are difficult to get here but before, when I was on a VSO
allowance, the cereal would have been an extravagance. And maybe also
not available in Mekelle. And I'm fussy about milk - I like it fresh and
pasteurised and from a carton....which didn't exist in Mekelle. There's
a few dairy enterprises around Addis so there's lots of milk in the
supermarkets here, in bags and cartons. Straight from the cow just
doesn't do it for me ( you can tell I'm not from a farming background).
So that was a good start to my day :)
Haven't started work yet, but have an offer and should be signing
contract soon.
Will post about millenium build-up in the next few days hopefully.

Friday, August 24, 2007

Being Irish

I do love being Irish....at this World IT Forum event here in Addis, a couple of people yesterday mistakenly thought I was someone else.

At lunchtime I got talking to a South African guy at my table (he figured I was Irish because I knew about Ethiopian beer....but I'm sure the accent gave me away too) and he told me his wife was Irish and that she was also here.

Later, an Ethiopian guy thought I was her and when I finally met her, a couple of other people were confused as they said we looked very alike. And what's more, it turned out she is originally from Greystones! We don't look that much alike, she has red hair, I have brown, but we do both have the freckly Irish skin and we must share an Irish look.

Probably the only two Irish people at this thing and people are mixing us up. I love it!

WITFOR2007 - conference session

I’m posting this from this event I’m at in Addis – WITFOR2007 (www.witfor2007.org), the World IT Forum. This is something that arose from the action plan of the WSIS (World Summit on the Information Society - www.itu.int/wsis/index.html). I spotted an ad for this in a local paper a couple of weeks ago and thought it would be a good opportunity to make some contacts in Addis at least. It’s turned out to be very interesting, particularly as there’s a strand focusing on ICT in education, just up my street. And I'm meeting lots of interesting people and making new friends - always a good thing.

The highlight for me so far has been the presentation by Nicholas Negroponte, of MIT MediaLab and the OLPC (One Laptop per Child) project (see http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/technology/6908946.stm on BBC web site and www.laptop.org). Some years back, he had an idea to manufacture a robust, easy-to-use and power, laptop geared towards educational use in developing countries. This has just recently become a reality, as the first batch of laptops have rolled off the production lines in China. A number of developing countries are rolling out the laptops in selected locations to begin with – these are countries who have approached OLPC themselves. Ethiopia is one of those countries – I’m now on a mission to find out where the laptops are being used, so I can go and see them myself. Mr. Negroponte was very impressive, in his enthusiasm and belief in the project. He believes in education as a means of solving world problems. There are issues to be considered – as a woman from the Tunisian government pointed out, shouldn’t we be more concerned about bringing electricity and running water to people; others asked why could the laptops not be produced in Africa. He had answers for these and more questions/criticisms. For example, the cost of the laptop would be more if manufactured in Africa, as the parts would have to be imported anyway and then reassembled. I think that while of course basic necessities like water and electricity need to be provided, the laptop can be seen as another learning tool along with textbooks, paper and pens. It can supplement these – a child could have all his textbooks in e-book format on his/her laptop.

Some delegates asked about content – Nicholas said that they have made the laptop capable of running in 10 different languages and 7 alphabets (including Ethiopian Amharic, which has its own script). It will come preloaded with an open source Linux-based operating system and a couple of programming tools (Logo and Squeak) – in keeping with the theory of learning that says that children learn more about learning when they write simple programs (based on the work of Seymour Papert at MIT – I learned about this when I was doing my MSc, so I felt I was I the right place when I heard him say that). I thought it was a bit typical of the culture of depending on other countries’ help, when a couple of delegates said ‘but what about the content, where will that come from?’. As Mr. Negroponte said, if someone invents a new car, they aren’t expected to also build the roads. My first thought was that here is a great opportunity for IT graduates and students in Ethiopia – start producing interesting content for these laptops. Of course Ethiopian IT and education professionals are best placed to produce localized, context-sensitive, relevant content for Ethiopian children using the laptops.

One of the really nice things about the way the laptops work is that in a given location (let’s say in a village), each laptop when it’s opened pops up 2 ‘ears’ or antennae that make it connect with other laptops nearby – thus they create their own local network. So, the children can do what they do best – socialize and share with each other what they are doing on their laptops. For most of what they do, the laptops need only 2 watts of power to run. That power comes from a battery that can be charged by manual action (as NN said, kids can even get their younger siblings to do that hard work) and also by connecting to an electricity supply overnight. Each laptop will come with 2 batteries so they can use one while the other is charging.

A key feature of the project is that the children own the laptops – that is a requirement OLPC imposes on governments who order the laptops for use in their countries. That means the kids get to take them home – they’re not just things that stay in a room in the school and can only be used there. And it’s not just one laptop per child, it’s also one per teacher – of course the teacher needs to be involved and be able to work on ways to make use of the laptop in school. The owners of the laptops can open them up, fix them and maintain them themselves – one of the technical innovations is the screen – if it breaks, it can be easily replaced, even by a child (unlike conventional laptops, where if the screen breaks, it’s not replaceable….or at least the laptop manufacturers don’t want us to be able to do that – why, when we could just by a whole new laptop from them!).

I suppose there are lots of potential problems – teachers who don’t know how to use a laptop or who feel threatened by new technology, lack of training for teachers and learners on how to use the laptops (though I’m sure most children, given the laptop to play with, will quickly work out what to do with it), lack of good content. But it’s such a daring idea, it’s got to be tried. And I’m going to find out where they are being used here as soon as I can!

Monday, August 20, 2007

Settling into Addis

We arrived in Addis about 10 days ago, and I’ve been using internet only at internet cafes, when I mainly check email and reply to them so haven’t been updating here.

The journey was good, uneventful in that nothing bad happened, but not boring either. Will post a few photos when I have better internet access.

 

During the first week, we were looking for a house. Or rather, D was doing most of the footwork, to save me the hassle but also to avoid as much as possible the chance that landlords would increase the price on seeing a ferenji was involved. He contacted various ‘brokers’ – usually an individual guy, who has contacts. They tend to be people who deal in different things – car hire, finding houses or rooms to rent, finding house maids, all for a fee of course. They act as a go-between for landlords and prospective tenants. It was maybe a problem that they were looking for houses around a certain monthly rental amount (B3000) rather than asking for the criteria we had (kitchen, hot shower, fridge, furnished – all these things are not standard here). And we also have the ‘millennium effect’ – it seems that many landlords are raising rents in anticipation of the diaspora who will come for the Ethiopian millennium in a couple of weeks’ time. Of course they denied this but it’s not just me, it’s being written about in local newspapers too.

 

Anyway, all of this meant we couldn’t get a nice house at our budget around the area we initially wanted (Haya Hulet, literally ‘22’, which I know well because it’s around the VSO office and it’s not too far from where D’s family live). But we’ve found a nice house in Shiro Meda, which is a bit far out from town, but the garden and relatively spacious house are worth it. We have not one but two spare rooms (take note anyone who’s thinking of visiting – though I should add that for now only one of them has a bed in it, though we have lots of sofa space), a large dining/living room, kitchen with running water (only cold but that’s enough), a new fridge and a 3 ring gas stove, bathroom with hot shower (essential for me) and a fairly spacious hallway. It’s nicely furnished and I’m liking it all so far. Shiro Meda is on the way towards the Entoto mountain, so it’s cold (that’s what anyone local said when I mentioned where the house was). And there’s no such thing as central heating here, but a gabbi (very warm wrap/blanket made from layers of locally produced cotton) does the job just as well when sitting curled up on an armchair of an evening. We even have a tv provided but so far only ETV on it. Might go mad and get a satellite dish when I’m earning money, while a VCD/DVD player will be a must, especially as there’s a VCD rental shop right next door, run by the landlady’s family. New release movies often come out quite quickly on VCD here, albeit as pirated ‘screen copies’. I can play them on my laptop but they’re usually a bit scratched and the laptop DVD drive doesn’t cope very well with that, leading to frustrating viewing experiences.

 

One thing I didn’t know about the rental market here before was that it’s standard to pay 6 months rent in advance. That may be because the renters are often NGOs or businesses who have lots of cash available. We were lucky that our landlady agreed to accept only 3 months in advance.

 

And, best of all for me, there’s a landline in the house, already connected so here I am using internet at home at last! But for now I’m using a friend’s account so I’m not going to use it too much. Will get my own account soon. Or rather, someone in D’s family will get an account and I’ll use it and pay for it. That’s because, I believe, a Kebele ID is necessary to get an account (Kebele is an administrative area within the city). And as a tourist I don’t have one of those. It’s really nice having his family around, they are looking after me, making sure I’m ok and not lonely since D has had to go back to Mekelle for a week or two. He needs to finish his work there and get his ‘clearance’ before finally leaving.

 

I will be trying to use Skype soon but it doesn’t always logon on this dial up connection – so if you see me online, go for it!

 

Friday, August 03, 2007

Ethiopian fruit

For want of something to post about, to let those concerned know that yes, I'm still alive and here....but not much to report on really.

So I took a photo of my fruit bowl :) just to say that the fruit here is great...see those big fat mangoes, they are yummy, and in season right now. Avocadoes are great too and the bananas taste great and they don't have the uniform size and shape of supermarket stock back home :) Oranges are almost always juicy and sweet. I use all of these to satisfy my cravings for something sweet after dinner...just as well, it's keeping my diet balanced :)

Monday, July 30, 2007

Hot showers

I was moaning last week about the fact that I didn't have water in my
bathroom...well, for unknown reasons, it has come back in the last few
days. So now I can have a hot shower in my own bathroom. Yay. I didn't
ask the landlady why/how the water was back on, she was blaming the
builders before but as far as I can see, no work's been done to fix
anything.

But that wasn't before I went to the gym in the Axum Hotel just to use
the hot shower! Well, I did do an aerobics session while I was there.
Surprised to find I wasn't completely out of breath doing it -
considering Mekelle is at about 2000m above sea level and I haven't been
doing much exercise hereapart from walking around the town.
To Jacqui in Canada - now I understand why you were such an avid
gym-goer!!

Awash Cafe

For my ex-Mekelle resident friends, you should know that the focus of socialising has shifted....Awash cafe, near Abreha Castel, at start of kebele 18 road (now asphalt!), is the place to go for draught St George beer and a bite to eat. They have a nice outdoor bit as well as the bar and restaurant. And it's handy to get to.Good also for a pre-pizza beer.

Tree Planting for the Millenium

Mums for Mums (www.mumsformums.com) had a tree planting session this morning, in the new Millenium Park beside the Hawelty (monument) in Mekelle. I think the government is encouraging 'tekle' or planting as a way to celebrate the upcoming Ethiopian millenium (it's 1999 here, 2000 will begin on September 11th - Ethiopian calendar has 12 months of 30 days each plus a 5 day month at the end, 6 in a leap year).

Mums for Mums have sponsored 250 trees. The staff dug the holes on Saturday and by this morning the earth was nicely watered after a downpour last night. About 40 MfM staff, counsellors, helpers and friends got down and dirty planting tree seedlings this morning, myself included. ETV were on hand with a camera and a reporter (I have a feeling I'll be on the news some day this week, as the token ferenji :)).

Tree planting is not just a random millenium event, it is necessary - deforestation has caused alot of land erosion and associated problems. Eucalpytus is not a native tree species but is everywhere - it's used for firewood but damages the soil (I think because it drains the soil of moisture - maybe any tree experts reading this can expand on this in a comment). So we planted indigenous species.

I have to admit that I left after about 2 hours as they were waiting for the second lot of seedlings to arrive, having planted all that were available and there still being holes to fill!

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Quick update

Haven't been on internet as much for the last week so here's just a
quick update...

Both I and D were sick at the weekend - probably from the buffet lunch
in a local place on Friday (Yordanos Blue for those in the know). Turned
out D has amoeba while my test showed up nothing. I may have just had
something viral that passed and I was fine on Monday. D taking
tinidazole to get rid of his unwelcome visitors. I had thought I was
doing well for the first couple of weeks, not having any stomach upsets!

This week, I'm giving some computer training at Mums for Mums
(www.mumsformums.com), a local NGO I help out. I'm giving 6 staff
members training to improve their skills in Word and Excel, with the
objective of them being more efficient in their work. We started
yesterday - got everything set up, 4 computers moved into a makeshift
training room, my laptop and projector up and running...and about an
hour into it, the power went off (in the middle of a massive rain
storm). So we ended up with just my laptop to work off for about and
hour and a half (my time here being limited). But it was useful
nonetheless and the power did come back on eventually.

We did more today and will do tomorrow, moving from Word onto Excel.

Last Saturday, I joined D on his work field trip to a place called
Samre, about 60km from Mekelle. Small rural town surrounded (during
rainy season anyway) by rolling green fields and stunning mountainous
scenery. I didn't get involved in treating the donkeys, left that to the
experts, but I did chat to some of the farmers who had brought their
donkeys along.

Some photos of the trip to Samre are on Flickr at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/terriosullivan/.


On the house front, we've had no running water in our bathroom (we don't
have a kitchen in this place) for over a week. Seemingly a problem with
the building - water is coming in and is ok on the ground floor but not
coming up to us on the first floor. The owner is blaming shoddy work by
the contractor (who apparently was a friend of one of the sons in the
US) so maybe not much can be done. Such a shame...a hot shower unit just
sitting there and I can't use it! We bring up buckets of (cold) water
from downstairs and wash using that. For a treat every few days I boil a
kettle (the lights dim when I plug it in...) and have a hot water wash.
What luxury! Hopefully our living standard in Addis will be better. It
could indeed be better here but not worth moving for a short time.

Ishee, beka for now,must finish this and leave!