Visiting Ethiopia/Suggestions/The Northern Circuit
This page was last updated on: September 9, 2008
Disclaimer: this information was originally put together in 2005. The prices given for flights and hotels have probably increased since then (there's been high inflation across the board in Ethiopia as of May 2008). Note also that many hotels have one rate for Ethiopians and residents of Ethiopia and another for foreigners (ferenjis). The 'resident rate' mentioned on this page refers to the rate that resident ID holders can get.
I've recently updated a Word document version of this information - download the Word doc 'Terri's Guide to the Northern Circuit'.
The ‘northern circuit’ consists of Axum, Gondar, Bahir Dar and Lalibela. Mekelle is a possible addition, if you have the time, the inclination and the budget.
The order in which you cover the circuit depends on your mode of travel and how much time you have at your disposal.
Air fares between the different locations vary from about B1000 to about B2000 one way. You can fly to any of the locations from Addis (and vice-verse), and you can fly the following routes:
- From Axum to Gondar and to Lalibela and to Mekelle
- From Gondar to Bahir Dar or to Lalibela
- From Bahir Dar to Lalibela and to Gondar
- From Lalibela to Bahir Dar and to Gondar and to Axum
- From Mekelle to Axum
If travelling by road, the route between Axum and Gondar is supposedly the most scenic (through the Simien Mountains) though hairy in places!
Axum
Where to stay
The old reliable hotel is the Africa Hotel. It’s about B50 for a single room (double bed) with decent bathroom with hot shower. It’s got a nice courtyard and friendly staff and is where passing UN people stay.
A new hotel, The Ark, opened just up the way during 2004. It’s better because it’s shiny and new (it was still looking good in March 2005) and the rooms have nice new beds and bathrooms. It’s a bit more expensive, at B80 for a double room. They have a resident rate of B50. One of the hotels in Axum has a swimming pool.
Around Axum
Axum has a nice atmosphere – wide streets with low buildings along them, and not too much hassle. Except when you get up around the stellae field, where there are lots of youths trying to sell stuff to you – coins and the like.
Be aware that the tourist/ticket office where you have to buy your ticket for the museum and the stellae field is on the right as you go up the road towards the stellae – you can easily miss it and have to walk back again.
Thanks to some arguing from volunteers who visited during 2004, the ticket office now has a notice up saying that resident permit holders are entitled to the habeesha entry fee of B4. It’s B50 for foreigners.
This ticket entitles you to access to the main stellae field in the town and also to some of the outlying ruins, such as King Kaleb’s palace and tomb. In the main stellae field, make sure you go right over to the left side of the field (as you look at it from the front) and have a wander inside Ramhai’s tomb – a torch might be handy.
You can walk to some of the outlying attractions – King Kaleb’s palace is just a few km. But if you’re not feeling up to it, like we were the last time I was there, you can arrange a taxi – any of the guys hanging around will sort one out for you, but do bargain to get a good price. We were initially asked for over B100 to use a taxi for about an hour to get up to the palace! Got it for 60 in the end.
Food
The local Ghion chain hotel is the Yeha, perched up on a hill above the Queen of Sheba’s Bath. I found the hotel a bit lacking in atmosphere, but it has a good view of the stellae from the verandah and it’s a nice spot to watch the sun go down over a beer. They have a set menu for B25, which is fairly average ferenji food.
There’s a good pastry shop in the new yellow building, just a short way up the road from the Ark Hotel, heading towards the stellae field, on the left.
I don’t know about traditional food places, but I’m sure there are plenty around the town.
Bahir Dar
Where to Stay
You can’t beat the Ghion Hotel for location, though it is a bit rundown. It's about B70 for an en-suite room.
The gardens run right down to the lakeshore, and it’s a very pleasant place to sit and have a drink, eat, chat or just chill out. You may meet some locals or ex-pats living there who might take you out on the town, to visit the Decent Bar and other small local bars that are good fun. Apparently there’s a good Asmari Bet and good tej.
The Tana Hotel, around on the side of the lake opposite the Ghion, is more posh and expensive. I have never stayed there but I believe it's a good place to sit and have a drink while you watch the sun go down.
Around Bahir Dar
You could spend your whole time ensconced in the Ghion grounds, leaving only when you jump into a mini-bus to go on a tour to Tis Abay (Blue Nile Falls) or into a boat to visit the island monasteries.
Tis Abay is a bit overrated, in my opinion – it’s a big water fall, yes, but most of the time there’s not a lot of water in it! I saw it in February, when it was quite small and in September when it was much bigger but very brown water, after the rainy season. It’s a nice walk to get to see it, but you do get a lot of hassle from local people.
There is a Habeesha and a ferenji rate for admission, make sure you flash the ID to get the cheaper one.
The boat trip to see monasteries on the islands is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon or a morning or, if you have the sea legs, all day. The half-day trip can take you to a few small islands where you can get a tour of a church or two and meet monks/nuns at a monastery. There is a bit of hassle when you disembark at some places, the usual kids trying to sell you stuff.
There are local guides hanging around the Ghion all the time, trying to nab you for a trip. Try to negotiate with them to get a good price. Check with the others they put into the mini-bus with you to make sure you’re not being ripped off!
Food
The Ghion has decent food, both habeesha and ferenji. The sandwiches are good – fish and chicken are possibilities. The Dib Anbessa Hotel has a fairly good menu of ferenji food, including some nice steaks.
Gondar
Gondar is, first and foremost, where Dawit was born and raised as a child! His grandmother and some other relatives still live there.
The Royal Enclosure in Gondar is one of my favourite places in Ethiopia – it’s a fairy-tale-like oasis of peace and quiet, that feels like it’s a million miles away from all the hassle on the streets.
Where to Stay
Gondar’s drawback is a lack of decent places to stay. The well-known Circle Hotel is fine but run-down and grimy. And circular…I got dizzy going up and down the stairs!
It doesn’t negotiate for room rates – but the rooms are big so if there are 3 of you, they can move in an extra bed.
The Quara Hotel, up the road from The Circle, is a Ghion chain hotel, the rooms are basic but fine, with hot shower.
The Terrara Hotel is a little less central than the aforementioned hotels but has more charm, though it is run-down. It's an ex-goverment hotel and while it really could do with a coat of paint and some renovation, it's pleasant to stay in, with a terrace surrounded by trees full of interesting bird sounds!
The Goha Hotel is the local Ghion. It is really nice but is up on top of a hill a couple of kms out of town, so you have to take taxis unless you are feeling very energetic. I stayed there with Mum and Dad in 2004 – they had to pay $50 for their room whilst I paid B50 as a VSO volunteer/resident. Dad liked it so much, he stayed there without venturing out for a day and a half – while Mum and I went to visit the Royal Enclosure. I had my first bath in Ethiopia at that hotel (I do take showers...) – it was lovely! My only complaints would be that the towels were tiny and the hot water was limited to certain times.
Around Gondar
The Royal Enclosure is well worth a visit if you like castles and if you want some peace and quiet. The entrance fee is B50 for foreigners. There are officially licensed tour guides in there, they will probably approach you. It's worth taking one of them to get the history. They have a fixed charge - maybe B100 or 200, I'm not sure.
If you take in a picnic you can enjoy your wanderings and then find a grassy corner to sit down and eat in. There is also a little cafe in the grounds, serving cold drinks and beer, not sure about food.
The restored castles are beautiful – I had visions of a Rapunzel leaning over the medieval-style wooden balconies!
Your ticket for the Royal Enclosure also entitles you to entry to Fasilidas’ Pool. You can get to it by taxi or just by walking out of town along the main road – it’s only a few kms. Again, it is a very peaceful place (unless it’s Timkat, the Epiphany, which occurs around January 19th) and if you like old castle-type buildings, you will enjoy it.
The other place I really recommend going to in Gondar is the Debre Birhan Selassie church. You can walk to this one too, out the other side of town. You can’t miss it – it is surrounded by lovely old walls. I had a nice chat to the guy at the gate and then to the priest and he let 3 of us in for what seemed like a reduced price – I think it was supposed to be B20 each, and we paid b30 altogether, even though my two friends were ferenjis. I think he was impressed with my Amharic…either that or he thought my 3 IDs (VSO, Resident and Mekelle University) were for the 3 of us!
The church really is beautiful, both inside and out. The angels ceiling is lovely to look at and I managed to get a reasonable photo, despite not being able to use a flash.
The Felasha village of Woleka outside Gondar is famous for pottery; the Felashas were the Jewish people of Ethiopia. Most of them are gone now (many were airlifted out to Israel during famine periods in the 70s and 80s). These days, there may not be many, if any, actual Felasha people remaining, but the tradition of pottery-making is carried on by the local people. To get there, follow the road out of town that goes towards the Goha Hotel. You can take a mini-bus taxi from along there. Alternatively, hire a contract taxi to take you there. You will see signs for the village a few km out of the town. There's also a community NGO working with local women - you'll see the sign for it on the right as you come into the village area. They welcome visitors and will give you a tour to see the different stages in their pottery-making. You can buy glazed pottery direct from them - such as candle-holders, mugs, jabanas (traditional Ethiopian coffee pots) and incense burners. These are also sold in a shop in Gondar and in the Royal Enclosure (at a higher price).
Food
A local VSO told me that the best place for habeesha food was Habeesha Kitfo, and it was very good. It does seem to be geared to tourists, but that wasn't a bad thing. It has a resident duck that wanders around – but there's no duck on the menu, lucky for it! The place serves good food –traditional food such as tibs (roasted meat), shiro (chick-pea based dish), bayenetu (a mix of different vegetarian dishes) and beer. It's on the right as you go along the road that leads up to the Royal Enclosure.
The Goha Hotel does decent enough ferenji food. They have a set 3-course for about B25 each day, with a couple of choices on it. The balcony there is a nice spot for a sunset beer, with good photo opportunities as the sun goes down.
The Delicious Pastry shop has good cakes, so stop in there for your morning or afternoon macciato.
Other than that, I can't recommend anywhere else in Gondar, but I'm sure there are places to be found!
Lalibela
Lalibela is undoubtedly a highlight of any trip. The rock churches really are amazing (even better than the Tigray rock churches, I have to admit!). I also like the town itself as a place to spend a few days. Yes, there is some hassle on the streets, from kids and youths wanting to be your guide, and also from official guides coming up to you in your hotel, but once you brush them off or just chat with them, they’re not so bad.
Beware if you arrive by air to Lalibela airport – it’s a good 25-30km drive to the town and there seems to be a bit of a cartel operating on transport to the town. They all charge a fixed rate of B30 per person, even if you’re going to stay in their hotel. Maybe if you have booked in advance or are with a tour group, it is less or free, but I am not sure.
Where to Stay
I have always stayed at The Seven Olives. It used to be a government Ghion hotel but now, I believe, it is private.
Last time I was there, March 2005, with some visitors, we paid B150 for a twin room and B100 for my single room (though, as usual, still a room with 2 beds in it).
The rooms are fine, with bathroom and hot shower. The attraction of The Seven Olives is the verandah overlooking green gardens and set above the town. It’s peaceful and quiet, though you do get a few official guides hanging around – looking a bit sullen if you completely ignore them.
Other places that are recommended by others are the New Jerusalem Guest House, at the other end of town, and the Asheton, almost opposite the entrance to The Seven Olives.
The Blue Lal is a new hotel, signposted opposite The Seven Olives. It looks ok, standard clean rooms and cheap.
In Lalibela
You need a few days in Lalibela – you pay B100 for the entrance to the churches anyway, and it lasts as long as you are there, so take your time. If you arrive late in the day, just wander around and get a feeling for the place.
You can take a guide for the churches if you want to – but it’s not compulsory. I found that not having a guide was nice because I chatted to the priests myself (in my limited Amharic and their not so bad English) and got the information I wanted. If you want all the stories and legends, then get a guide. You pay anything from B100 to B200 per day for a guide – but you can share between a few people.
You can also do day trips out to see monasteries, such as Yemremana Christos, in the hills around the town. If you have lots of spare time, you could walk but if you have money, you can hire a car and driver. For some of them, you can hire a mule and ride out to them.
Food
The well-known Chez Sophie (also known as Blue Lal) is signposted, almost opposite the entrance to The Seven Olives. Sometime in late 2004/early 2005, it moved from a nice compound on the main road to the new hotel premises down a lane.
It’s still a nice place, with simple, traditional furnishing and inside and outside areas. Blue Lal is known for its pizza – apparently Sophie herself spent some time in France. But don’t get too excited – they don’t have cheese and while they are big and tasty, the toppings consist of lots of tomato puree, some onions and plenty of garlic. There might be a few other vegetables if they’re available.
There’s another pizza restaurant down the road (turn left out of Seven Olives, and head down the hill – not far down on the left side). It’s called Blue Nile – apparently it was opened by Sophie’s husband after they separated. I think the name is designed to lure people there in the belief that it is the Blue Lal. It is a similar place, nice also. A masenko musician is likely to come in and play after you eat, so have some spare birr for him.
The Seven Olives Hotel restaurant is nice and has decent food, with both traditional and international choices.
Lalibela is known for something other than churches – good tej (honey wine/mead)! The Askalech tej bet, further down the hill from the Seven Olives, on the way to the ticket office, is a good place- though it has a bit of a touristy air about it. I think that was the first place I had tej that I actually liked and managed to drink a whole flask (or two) of it.
Mekelle
OK, I lived in Mekelle for 2 years, so I may be biased. I admit it hasn’t got the attractions of Bahir Dar, Gondar, Axum or Lalibela, but I think its lack of tourists is a plus because you don’t get guys asking if you need a guide everywhere you walk. That’s not to say it doesn’t have its fair share of hassle (of the you-you, ferenji, money variety) but it can be easily ignored or you can tell the hassler to go away and usually they do.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of hotels in Mekelle, ranging from the posh Hill Tops and Axum Hotels to cheap but decent places like the Merkab around the bus station. In between, there are hotels like the Atse Yohannis and the Seti. The Abreha Castle Hotel is set in an old castle on a hill, with good views over the town from the balcony. Some of them have fixed rates, some can be negotiated.
Around Mekelle
The main attractions of Mekelle itself are the museum in the Atse Yohannis palace – I never made it there myself but some of my visitors did and they enjoyed it (particularly Dad, ask him about it!). The other local attraction is the Martyrs’ Monument – iIt is a marble edifice topped with a large gold ball. There are good views of the town from it and some interesting statues depicting people during the struggle – famine victims and revolutionaries. There is also a museum there, if you're interested to find out about the revolution.
Most tourists come to Mekelle either on the way to or on the way from visiting some of the many rock churches in Tigray. They are, perhaps, not as impressive as Lalibela churches but some are in very spectacular locations at the tops of mountains. There are some churches that can be visited by day trip from Mekelle – either by public bus to the Wukro area or by hiring a car and driver.
Rock churches by bus
The easiest trip to do by bus is to go to the Tekla Tesfai cluster of churches. Get a bus from Mekelle bus station. If possible, get an Adigrat bus and get off at Tekla Tesfai. If there is no Adigrat bus, you can take a Wukro bus and then get a local bus from Wukro to Tekla Tesfai. But I think the Adigrat option is easier.
The fare to Tekla Tesfai should be B10, but we were charged the full b15 fare for Adigrat on a minibus.
Once you get off the bus in Tekla Tesfai, there are obvious signposts to the group of 3 churches – Petros Paulos, Mikael and Medhane Alem. There is also a horde of young men jostling to be your guide. It’s worth taking one of them – if you make it clear that you will pay only one guide, that should get rid of the other hangers-on. A younger lad might also tag along, to go and find the priests who have the church keys.
If you get there early in the morning and are feeling fit, you can see all three of them in a day, walking from one to the other. Or you can just choose one or two of them to go to.
Be warned that Petros Paulos has a very steep ascent up a rock face – not for the faint-hearted, or so I’m told – I haven’t made it to that one yet.
The only one of the three I’ve actually been to is Medhane Alem, which doesn’t have paintings inside but has interesting designs hewn into the rock.
As they aren’t official guides, you can pay them something like B20-30 for their services. My guide didn’t know much really….when we asked about a bird we saw, all he had to say was that it was a type of bird, maybe an ostrich. Which it clearly wasn’t – it didn’t have long legs and it was less than a foot high! And he sulked a bit with his B20 fee, even though we only went to one church.
You can give the key-fetcher a few birr or more if you feel like it. He’ll probably sulk as well, no matter what. My guide quietly told me at one point that I should only give the key boy B2. So we gave him B6, as he was helpful on the climbing bits. He wasn’t happy and when I tried to explain that the guide told me to give him only B2, the guide tried to deny it and push it back to me. And I didn’t have the vocabulary in Amharic or Tigrinia to make it all clear.
After you finish, just get back to the main road, find a shady spot to sit and wait for the next bus to come along. Or try to hitch a lift. Be prepared to be watched by a group of kids, youths and men with nothing else to be doing.
Longer trips to rock churches
I have also done a two day trip out to Hawzen, with Eoghan & Nadine, where we stayed for one night in a basic hotel. We hiked on both days, to see 3 churches – Mariam Korkor, Debre Tsion and Yohannes Makude. The hike up to Mariam Korkor was quite tough, part of it through a narrow chasm between high sides of rock. The views were amazing – across the beautiful mountains of Tigray. I found the hiking to get to the churches to be the most amazing part of the trip.
One thing to beware of – car hire costs B1000-B1200 a day in Mekelle, including the driver and fuel. I have used the services of a local guide a few times and he is good. He charges B200 a day. It is not necessary to have a guide for visiting the churches near Wukro, but it is useful to have one for the more further afield churches. The guide can also source a car and driver for you. The guide’s name is Michaele and he can be contacted via the Axum Hotel (mention Terri to him and he might give a discount).
Food
Mekelle has not one, but three pizza restaurants. One is the Castle Yordanos, next to the Abreha Castle hotel. The pizza is fine, nothing really special but nice for a change. There is another Yordanos restaurant, Blue, down the main street. It has a decent menu including pasta, steak, fish and habeesha food.
The other pizza restaurants are Milkana and Milanos.
The Abreha Castle Hotel has a restaurant in the main building and also a traditional tukul restaurant to the side - this has very good traditional food.
The Geza Geralassie is a local dancing and music place that also does very good food. They specialise in beef – they do a great shish kebab and shekla tibs. They also have good shiro and tagemino shiro.
If you want to experience Tigray dancing and music, the Geza Geralassie is also the place to go, on a Thursday or Saturday night. There is a live band and professional dancers and the audience also join in the dancing. This is the place to put your shoulder shaking to the test and it’s a genuine cultural experience!